I live in the ‘dodgy and dirty’ city influencers hate — I’ve never had more fun

Whether a consequence of clickbait, ignorance or the inability to get out of their comfort zones, influencers and keyboard warriors simply love to hate on Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo.

Time after time, I stumble across reels and posts from entitled Instagrammers commenting on how ‘dodgy’ and dirty the city is, how it’s unsafe for women and that there’s ‘zero reason to visit’.

One even claimed that you don’t need ‘waste any time’ in a city he described as ‘congested with far too many tuk-tuks.’
For a capital, the city is pretty diminutive in size, meaning it has a brilliant, friendly community that at times feels more like living in a town.

I bump into people I know on a weekly basis, something that happened less than five times in the two decades I lived in London, and it also feels much safer than London-living.

And as well as the myriad cool cocktail bars and fun cafes to seek out, there’s also top-notch restaurants and great art galleries, as well as open-air swimming pools, sprawling parks and an array of well-curated concept stores.

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That’s not forgetting the beaches, many of which are easily accessible from the city and backed by coastal train lines.

Like any city in the world, a day on the way to somewhere else is simply not enough time to get to grips with the nuances, quirks and unwritten rules of a place.

Which is why I’d highly recommend spending at least three nights, if not more, in the beautiful capital.

With a little curiosity and a lot less judgement, visitors will learn much about the stories of Sri Lanka and its past from the vibrant, creative capital.

Here’s where to go and what to see for a taste of local life.

Where to wander

The city is made up of 15 divisions, but leafy Colombo 7, with its wide boulevards, cricket grounds and elegant structures, makes the ideal neighbourhood to take a stroll around.

Stroll in the shadow of the ancient banyan and ficus trees that loom like benevolent guardians, their colossal roots cracking pavements as if reminding the city who was here first.

Begin on the outskirts of the district at Viharamahadevi Park, a place where families gather to picnic during weekends and all manner of colourful birds can be spotted or heard, before meandering along Barnes Place and zig-zagging back and forth along the pretty roads, dotted with fun cafes.

Then loop back towards Independence Square to join the joggers soaking up the atmosphere of Independence Walk before checking out the memorial.

Where to shop and get a hit of culture

For museums and art galleries, the Sapumal Foundation, Colombo National Museum, and Number 11, the ex-residence of renowned late architect Geoffrey Bawa, are all worth a visit, or stop by the newly opened Radicle Gallery in the Fort area of town
To shop for books, jewellery, and fashion, concept store PR,
The Design Collective and stalwart Barefoot, comprising a gallery, shop and cafe, are all worth stopping by.

Where to eat

For beautiful rice and curry, Ranbath Organic has just moved into a new location in Colombo 5, set in a colonial mansion amidst tropical greenery, it’s well worth heading over for lunch.

Many of the restaurants along Park Street Mews serve great dishes in beautifully-designed interiors, look out for Monsoon, Billing or Chambers.

Add to that syrupy milk tea on street corners, and chocolate doughnuts from the bakery tuk-tuk, and Colombo is perfect for foodies.

Where to drink

The city has a fast-evolving cocktail scene, and some of the best can be found in a new speakeasy called Kampong, close to Kompagngna Veediya railway station, or for well-mixed drinks with great city views, head up to Virticle by Jetwing, Ward7 Restobar, or Headquaters by W15.

For good blends on the ground, I love Uncle’s and Jazzebel, both also found on Park Street Mews, head on over from Thursdays to Saturdays for all round good vibes and live music.

Where to get a massage

When the heat of the day gets too much, visiting one of Colombo’s serene spas or wellness spaces is a brilliant bet.

Or to enjoy one of the largest saunas in the country after a delightful deep tissue massage, the Kaya Kelp spa at ITC Ratnadipa is a fab find.

Where to stay

There’s almost too many incredible hotels, boutiques and guesthouses to mention.

But if I had to pick just a few I’d recommend: Maniumpathy and ISHQ for high-end boutique luxury, De Saram House and Jetwing Ratnam Residence for architecture and art lovers.

And, of course, you can’t forget the Shangri-La for its beautiful pool, which overlooks the ocean.

What are your thoughts on Colombo as a travel destination?Comment Now
Get in touch by emailing MetroLifestyleTeam@Metro.co.uk.