The ‘sweetest’ town in Europe is the perfect place for a foodie break

‘Ooh, that one please.’
I point at the salted caramel praline peering at me from behind the glass counter, willing me to pick it.

Shop assistant Isabel places the perfectly formed treat in a box that seems a little excessive for a single chocolate.

But in this shop, in the medieval town of Radovljica, northern Slovenia, each piece is treated with reverential respect.

I feel it between my thumb and forefinger, breathe in its aroma, then slip it into my mouth, allowing it to melt on my tongue.

The intricate tapestry of flavours dances on my taste buds.

I’m in heaven at Radolška čokolada — hands down, the best chocolate I’ve ever tasted.

The taste is almost as incredible as the story behind it.

Europe’s best chocolate shop?

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When the world came to a stop in spring 2020 due to the Covid pandemic, owners Gregor and Nataša Mikel — furloughed from their desk jobs — turned their attention to learning about sweet stuff.

They had been fascinated by it ever since their involvement with the Radovljica Chocolate Festival.

Launched in 2012, the festival attracts around 20,000 international visitors over two days.

Not bad for a town with just 6,000 inhabitants.

Unlike many sweet treats, the production of chocolate requires in-depth knowledge and skill.

It’s not something you can learn online.

And neither Gregor and Nataša had any experience.

Scratching their heads, the couple got in touch with an acquaintance, Samo Osmanchevich, one of Slovenia’s first chocolatiers, and absorbed every bit of knowledge they could.

Following four months of intensive work, they took educational trips to Zagreb, Croatia, further cementing their expertise.

But it wasn’t until they met Riccardo Magni, one of Italy’s master chocolatiers, that the idea of independently producing their own truly formed in Gregor’s mind.

‘After ten years of organising the biggest chocolate festival in Slovenia, the town still didn’t have its own chocolatier,’ Nataša tells me.

‘Gregor and I were so passionate that we invested every hour, day, week and month into creating truly good chocolate.’
Fast forward to today and the shop — located at the entrance to Radovljica’s old town — attracts chocolate lovers from around the globe.

Tastes of northern Slovenia

And not only for its chocolate.

It’s astonishing that a country of just two million people has around 10,000 beekeepers producing 2,000 tonnes of honey each year.

Beekeeping is one of Slovenia’s oldest traditional crafts and an important part of the economy — so much so that it is the only EU member state to have protected its native bee, the Carniolan bee.

I don’t have to look far to find further evidence as I step inside Gostilna Lectar.

This traditional restaurant, inn, bakery and gingerbread workshop is housed in a building more than 500 years old.

Warm, rustic and full of cosy charm, it’s decorated with Slovenian folk art and bright handicrafts that look like something from a fairytale.

The gingerbread workshop and bakery, originally opened by Jakob Krivic in 1766, remain in operation today.

My visit is well timed, and I join a group tour to learn how lects — traditional gingerbread hearts — are made.

The honey-based dough, typical of Slovenia and decorated in vibrant colours, was traditionally given as a token of love from men to women.

A small mirror was often added, revealing the face of the person they wished to court.

With a restaurant on site since 1822, you can enjoy a hearty meal without breaking the bank.

Much of Slovenia’s land is unsuitable for large-scale cereal crops like wheat and corn.

Buckwheat, however, thrives in smaller plots.

This nutritious, low-cost crop grows quickly, reseeds itself, and is commonly used in dumplings, breads, or as a side dish.

But it’s the traditional slow cooked lightly spiced leg of lamb, served with sautéed potatoes and sauerkraut, that truly captures my attention.

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Old Town magic

Wandering through Radovljica’s old town, lined with majestic 16th- and 17th-century buildings, I stumble upon what appears to be an ordinary house.

Pottery displayed outside draws me in.

At first glance, the pieces seem decorative, but closer inspection reveals a display of plant pots, ceramic owls and frogs, as well as functional bowls and plates for sale.

With the front door ajar, I step inside to find even more captivating creations.

Sitting at a table in what feels like a living room is the woman behind it all, with a guide dog resting by her side.

She introduces herself as Nada Jazbec, a 66-year-old local who lost her sight at the age of 20 due to diabetes.

‘My life turned upside down overnight,’ she tells me.

‘Within two weeks, I lost the sight in both eyes due to capillary bleeding.’
Having learned basic pottery at school at the ages of 15, Nada was determined to rebuild her life, creating pottery using her mind’s eye.

Deep rooted traditions

A day-care centre for adults with special needs also produces ceramics and artwork in the old town.

Woodcraft is another deeply rooted Slovenian tradition, particularly in Škofja Loka, around 30 miles from Radovljica.

It’s here that I meet another remarkable artisan, Matija Hiršenfelder, who creates everything from simple forms to complex, technologically demanding pieces.

‘Originally, my work was mostly made from whatever materials were at hand,’ he tells me.

‘But the unique smell of each wood species completely consumed me.’
After leaving secondary school, he began an apprenticeship in woodturning and wood binding to polish his skills.

An established craftsman and recipient of the Zlata Vitica Award for Special Handicraft Achievements in 2010, talented Matija has restored 450 window frames and 30 doors at the Government Building and the President’s Office in Ljubljana.

Today, he runs regular school holiday workshops for children.

‘It’s encouraging to see students become absorbed in woodcraft,’ he says.

‘They’re learning new skills, and it’s often the only time they put their phones away.

Many tell me how much better they feel mentally after a workshop.

I hope some will carry these skills into adulthood.’
There’s no doubt Slovenians are deeply proud of their traditions and committed to preserving centuries-old crafts.

Yet, they’re equally open to embracing new ideas and evolving with the times.

Radolška čokolada is a perfect example — and proof that, in Radovljica, life really is very sweet.

Getting to Radovljica

British Airways, easyJet, and Wizz Air all fly direct from London (mostly Gatwick, sometimes Stansted) to Ljubljana, both seasonally and year-round.

From Ljubljana, it’s a 35-minute taxi or hour-long bus to Radovljica.

Direct trains run hourly and take around 50 minutes.

Private rooms in pensions and walking hostels start from around £70 per night.

Double rooms in boutique hotels start from £177, according to rates on Booking.com.