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Swapping foreshores for foothills, James Litston checks into Belmond’s La Residencia for a luxury escape in Mallorca
La Residencia is one of Mallorca's original luxe hotels, sitting within sight of the sea on the edge of the hilltop village of Deia
With the nearby coast made of mountains and cliffs, this is not where you'd come for a beach holiday, although you can enjoy sea swims down at Cala Deia, a rocky cove, where you’ll also find Ca's Patro March, the retro-chic seafood restaurant as seen on screen in The Night Manager .
Taxis from Palma airport take around 40 minutes and the bus from Palma (a 50-minute journey) stops outside the gate.
Read more: The best hotels in Mallorca, from adults-only rural retreats to historic stays
La Residencia is a refined country house hotel.
The rooms and restaurants are spread across a manor house and adjacent buildings, with the oldest part of the property dating from the 1600s.
From the front lawns and gardens, the hotel rises in tiers emulating the dry-stone terraces that earned the Tramuntana range Unesco World Heritage status.
A backdrop of the peaks themselves brings further wow-factor and drama.
Inside, you'll find period furnishings and original art, including a fine selection by Joan Miro, the surrealist who lived and worked in Palma.
From the front desk to the waiters and housekeeping, staff are endlessly cheerful and accommodating.
As you might expect from a brand as unashamedly upmarket as Belmond, service throughout is consistently polished and attentive, yet it's friendly and personable rather than robotic.
The reception and concierge teams are well versed in things to see and do nearby.
A complimentary shuttle service to the cove is a welcome addition.
The 66 rooms and suites (there's also a villa) are spread across four buildings, three of which are historic; the other, built to a matching design, dates from 2007.
In keeping with the authentic aesthetic, standard rooms have high ceilings, exposed rafters and generous dimensions, with white-painted walls and tiled floors that help beat summer's heat.
No two rooms are exactly alike.
Bathrooms have walk-in showers and Islamic-inspired tiles.
Upgrade options include suites with plunge pools or four-poster beds.
Read more: Best family-friendly hotels in Mallorca – where to stay for kids’ clubs and swimming pools
The breakfast buffet served at poolside Son Fony goes large on island flavours via cheeses, fruits and charcuterie (with vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options), plus an a la carte offering of hot dishes.
The hotel's most striking feature is its freeform swimming pool (one of Mallorca's largest) surrounded by loungers and parasols.
There's also a smaller, adult-only pool and an indoor option at the spa.
The spa itself offers six treatment rooms, steam facilities and out-of-the-ordinary therapies such as a hands-on “Body Talk” analysis that identifies the impacts of everyday stress on the body.
Beyond lazy indulgences, guests can sign up for daily activities (without extra cost), including olive oil tasting, al fresco yoga, cookery, tennis lessons or a donkey meet-and-greet.
There’s also the option to dive into local culture with an artist-led workshop in a dedicated studio under the “Artist in Residencia” programme.
Read more: The best luxury hotels in Mallorca, from private infinity pools to celebrity chefs
There are lots of staircases at this hotel, and the pool and spa are not currently wheelchair accessible.
The building nearest the breakfast area has step-free access and two adapted rooms.
Small pets with a maximum weight of 10kg are allowed to stay for no extra fee.
Dogs must be kept under strict control in all public areas.
Check-in is from 3pm, check-out is 12 noon.
Best thing: Yoga classes at a sea-view terrace among the olive groves.
Perfect for: Relaxing escapes, a birthday celebration, or even a destination wedding.
Not right for: Lovers of a sandy beach.
Instagram from: Poolside, against that soaring mountain backdrop.
Address: Son Canals s/n, 07179 Deià, Mallorca, Spain
Read more: The best hotels in Palma de Mallorca, from boutique boltholes to stays with rooftop pools
James was a guest of La Residencia, a Belmond Hotel.
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